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K swap ecu options

Its simplicity, raw form, and ease to drive at the limit make it on of the funnest cars you can track on a budget. One of the main advantages the Integra and Civic have over other platforms is the mass availability of OEM and aftermarket performance parts allowing you to modify the car to suit your tastes and needs. And one of the best bang for the buck modifications that can be done is a K-Swap.

I will say though, the key to a reliabile K-Series is to keep it internally stock. So where do we start? Even the more reason to go K-swap! There are many variations and what vehicles they come out of. I decided to go with the K20 over the K24 since I wanted the extra revs for the track versus more torque that the K24 provides.

The engine and trans plus harness and ecu, etc. If you have the money my recommendation is to buy the JDM K20A Type-R setup as it has slightly higher compression, better intake manifold and valvetrain not to mention an LSD equipped transmission making it the best drop-in and drive solution.

As for the swap parts needed to make this an easy and seamless job, there are quite a few options available today. Be aware though there may be newer or different versions available since as I said, my K20 swap was performed over 7 years ago. Hell no!

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Since I still wanted a streetable clutch the full faced disc that Comp Clutch uses retains very stock-like and civil engagement while increasing clamp load to hold a stout ft-lbs. Plenty good for most naturally aspirated setups. One of the other key components to the swap is the shifter and linkage. Im swapping my civic ES with a K Mix it with a dc5 6speed gearbox and head. Juicing it with a hondata k pro v3.

5 Lessons Learned From A EM2 K-Swap

Now what happen is, my vtec wont engage since there is a trouble code for the vss. No CELs lighted up. How do i fix this? Hey my name is nolan i am do a k 24a swap how much for the Hasport K-Series swap axles?? I have a 99 Civic Si Canadian versiona 5 speed mated to a D16 engine.September 27, 4 min read Tech Articles. Below is a brief description and links to the parts needed to perform a K-Swap. The K-series Swap can be cheap if you do it right the first time!

We completed one of the first EG swaps over 5 years ago. We deal with everything K-series daily and know how to save you money but still get you the best parts for the swap. We sell direct and are ready to help you get your K-Swap done.

K20 Swap Guide – What you need to swap a K20

We offer competitive pricing on complete packages and are ready to work you up a complete package price. Why not get everything from one place! The engine should come complete with the basics such as starter, alternator, engine and charge harness, shifter cables, shifter box, primary O2 sensor etc. K-series engine harness -This should come with your engine and is used to send and receive signals to and from the ECU and dashboard.

K-series charging harness starter sub-wire - This should come with your engine and is used primarily for charging of the battery. K-Swap Engine Mounts - Used to properly locate the engine of choice into the chassis of choice. K-Swap Axles - Used to transfer the power from the engine to the wheels.

K-Swap Clutch Line - A braided stainless steel and Teflon coated line used to connect the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. K-Swap Radiators - Hybrid Racing radiator All bolt-in aluminum radiators with custom inlet and outlet to simplify the K series conversion.

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This also incorporates the RSX coolant temperature and fan switch control sensor. K-Swap Radiator Hoses - Used to transfer coolant to the engine from the radiator and back again. K-Swap Radiator Relocation Bracket - Used to transfer your stock radiator from the passenger side to the driver side. If using the stock radiator. Slim Fans - Required to maintain adequate space in the engine bay.The number of vehicles that are now receiving either LS or LT engines is amazing.

Thanks to companies such as EFILiveenthusiasts can enter into the world of electronic engine controls and traverse the tides with great success. Just like formulating a winning combination for any engine, properly selecting from the vast offerings of slightly-used engines and controllers can be done with a little knowledge and research.

There have been several upgrades to the LSx line since they were introduced in the late-nineties, both to the engines and the controllers that drive them. General Motors has used various controllers since the LS1 was introduced in However, in my experience, the modifications have to be pretty extreme. This ensures that you will have the necessary ECU to make the engine operate as it was designed, including the option for cam-phasing and Displacement On Demand cylinder deactivationif you choose to use that technology.

One thing not recommended to bring along from your take-out engine is the harness, for several reasons. Sure, it might be easier to make it part of the deal, but it also incorporates a lot of extra wiring and additional circuits that you may not use.

Plus, can you really be sure that it was gently removed from the donor vehicle? Think about all of the connections and potential for hazards. If you were to go with an aftermarket harness from a company such as Speartech or Howell Engine Developments, Inc. How do you know which one works? If you know what the engine was removed from, they have a comprehensive listing of each ECU as it was used in each application.

You can simply look up the donor vehicle and see what ECU it came with. It also helps to know what you wish to do with your engine. That means, while appearance and capability has changed over the years, the basic platform for how the ECU operates has been fairly stable since the LS engine was introduced.

In addition to having the ability to handle electronic throttle control, the LS1 PCM Powertrain Control Module incorporated an entirely new, and significantly more sophisticated, engine control architecture. With literally hundreds of calibration tables, Gen III and later controllers offer far more precise control of engine and transmission operation than previous generations of PCMs or ECMs.

Whether LS or LT-based, the latest offerings from General Motors have found their way under the hoods of almost every make and model car, boat and even aircraft! Of course, noting transmission control is important, since for the Corvette, GM scrapped the single Powertrain Control Module concept in favor of separate engine and transmission controllers.

ECUs for the Gen III LS engines utilize a 24x reluctor wheel on the crankshaft and have the cam position sensor in the block, at the rear of the intake.

Solving ECU Options For Your LT Or LS Engine Swap With EFILive

Gen IV engines have a front-mounted cam position sensor and use a 58x wheel on the crankshaft aside from a few oddball transition-year models utilizing the E40 ECM — those have a 24x but the front-mounted cam sensor. You can tell the reluctor wheel tooth count by the color of the sensor used to read it, tooth wheels use a black sensor and tooth versions use a gray sensor.

ECUs in LS engines utilize a 24x reluctor wheel on the crankshaft and have the cam position sensor in the block, at the rear of the intake. Gen IV engines have a front-mounted cam position sensor and use a 58x wheel on the crankshaft aside from s utilizing the E40 ECM.

Gen IV engines also used a one-tooth, and four-tooth cam positioning indicator on the cam gear. Also, between andGM used both mechanical and drive-by-wire throttle control. This E38 is a Gen IV controller and only dictates engine operation. It uses a separate controller for the transmission, like all Gen IV controllers. Note the two connectors. In some cases, some sensors or controllers may need to be changed.

The E40 left and E67 right controllers both have three connectors, but they are not the same as the number of pins is different in the connectors.

The E67 controller has a wider range of capabilities than the E38 and while it is similar, the proper harness and sensors must be used for the specific controller.This time around I'm documenting the actual swap process, but instead of just watching, taking notes, and snapping a few pictures, I thought I'd actually perform the swap as if I'd just read the original story. Of course, the downside of a K24 is that you won't get that infamous horsepower, but you would get a K-swap, and lately, just having that is heading toward the top of most enthusiasts' lists.

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Now that more aftermarket support for the K24 has surfaced, as well as the excellent torque that the 2. However, Hasport has stepped up once again to lead the industry. Additionally, by mid-summer, they should have the ''00 version available as well. At that time, Hasport will also have a dual height version similar to the EKK2 available.

Here's the quick breakdown of this new swap: you'll be using the standard K24, not the real VTEC one, but the other one. With more thanAccords made every year sincethese engines are pretty much everywhere.

Solving ECU Options For Your LT Or LS Engine Swap With EFILive

The Accord is your source for a cheap manual transmission too. The bonus to the Accord transmission is its shifter box and cables. That's at least half the cost of RSX stuff. Using Accord parts is essentially the cornerstone to this swap, and where the major savings come in.

But we found a few other savings thanks to Hasport and the forums. On our '95 Integra four-door, we wanted to keep the power steering, so we didn't use this.

But because we kept the K's power steering pump, we could also keep the original tensioner. Next was the fuel supply system. The K24 doesn't use a fuel return from the fuel rail, but the Integra does.

k swap ecu options

What's usually done is a full blown kit, from someone like K-Tuned, that includes lines, AN fittings on braided hose, a billet fuel rail, and billet fuel pressure regulator FPR. Keeping our budget in mind, we went the eBay route. A simple Chinese FPR with all push-on line connections is less than fifty bucks shipped. I'd never use one of these things for a turbo engine, but for a constant pressure setup like the K24 requires, it's a perfect fit.

By adding just one twelve-inch piece of fuel line, we had the entire system connected with parts that were already under the hood. A few other pennies were pinched with the clutch line, power steering hose and more, but the captions will display those. The rest of the story, however, revolves around the old saying "the devil in the details. Physically performing this swap with my own two hands wasn't so I could put wrench to bolt, but rather to try and help readers out when they go to do a swap that's really not commonplace just yet.

k swap ecu options

Since we're not using RSX-S stuff, there are many new parts, and in typical Honda fashion, many things are interchangeable. On the flip side, there are some other parts that aren't so compatible. The Swap The first thing you're going to stumble on is the engine. The Accord K24 is going to be the easiest to get and 95 percent of the time, the cheapest. They are just everywhere. We paid a bit more for our '05 unit, but it only had 35, miles on it. Next, you're going to need an Accord five-speed and shifter box with cables.

Unfortunately, the yards often don't care about the cables. They often will have the shifter, but 90 percent cut the cables on the tranny when just pulling two cotter pins would actually save the cables. So here's your big tip for getting the engine and trans.

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Try to work with one of the larger national yards like LKQ first. If you get lucky, they will still have something in a car and you can get it all in one shot. But their process works to just completely disassemble the cars as soon as they come in. If you strike out with them, do a and try a local yard. Here is where you can talk to a counter guy who might actually enjoy cars and be interested in what you're doing.Here is the list of parts with prices used for our budget K-series engine swap.

After the list is a description of the parts and possible alternatives. Our patient, a Honda Civic hatchback. It's on the operating table about to receive a transplant.

The website car-part. If you use the website you can often find better deals than the ones listed below. Had we used the best prices found on car-part. You may get lucky in your area.

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A lot of the really good prices are listed at the east coast salvage yards. Another possible money saver is buying a complete K-series swap.

One of he biggest expenses for a K swap is the engine. It even came with a clutch and flywheel. That could add money to your swap.

Your budget K-swap engine choices. That means engines, trans, ECU, wiring harness, and alternator. Alternatives: The Honda Element came with the exact same engine as the Accord. If you can find a Element and maybe talk the salvage yard into including the engine harness too. Again if you can get it with a harness, the increased price might make it worthwhile.

And they do have 40 more horsepower. Another possible bank breaker for our budget K-series is the transmission. Here are some options that cost a fraction of a Type S six speed trans. One of the big advantages of using an Accord transmission is using the Accord shifter and cables. It was a couple of hundred dollars savings over using the RSX stuff. Honestly I think the feel of this shifter it much better than the RSX unit. You can buy them on car-part. It also requires a different mount kit from the EGK4 we used.

The O Civic Si 6-speed trans is even more expensive but K-Tuned makes a bracket that lets yours the less expensive Accord shift cables. The page also lists the features that can be activated with the various ECUs as well.Its simplicity, raw form, and ease to drive at the limit make it on of the funnest cars you can track on a budget. One of the main advantages the Integra and Civic have over other platforms is the mass availability of OEM and aftermarket performance parts allowing you to modify the car to suit your tastes and needs.

And one of the best bang for the buck modifications that can be done is a K-Swap. I will say though, the key to a reliabile K-Series is to keep it internally stock. So where do we start? Even the more reason to go K-swap! There are many variations and what vehicles they come out of. I decided to go with the K20 over the K24 since I wanted the extra revs for the track versus more torque that the K24 provides.

The engine and trans plus harness and ecu, etc. If you have the money my recommendation is to buy the JDM K20A Type-R setup as it has slightly higher compression, better intake manifold and valvetrain not to mention an LSD equipped transmission making it the best drop-in and drive solution. As for the swap parts needed to make this an easy and seamless job, there are quite a few options available today.

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Be aware though there may be newer or different versions available since as I said, my K20 swap was performed over 7 years ago. Hell no! Since I still wanted a streetable clutch the full faced disc that Comp Clutch uses retains very stock-like and civil engagement while increasing clamp load to hold a stout ft-lbs. Plenty good for most naturally aspirated setups. One of the other key components to the swap is the shifter and linkage. Im swapping my civic ES with a K Mix it with a dc5 6speed gearbox and head.

Juicing it with a hondata k pro v3. Now what happen is, my vtec wont engage since there is a trouble code for the vss.After I had gotten my hands on an '04 model, my main goal was to increase its performance. Like many other car enthusiasts getting into the fascinating world of car tuning, I started with simple and cheap mods such as changing the intake and exhaust system - soon to find out that most of these mods wouldn't make my car faster, but louder.

The only modification which seemed to have a slight impact on the motor's power band was the replacement of the stock plastic intake manifold with the one of a D16Y8 motor.

The swap brought in an increase in torque in the higher engine speeds and the D17 engine responded more agile. But hours of work for a meager gain of a few Newtonmeters? It was apparent that I needed to go bigger. During my internet research, I came across these so-called "K-Series Swaps" - swapping in one of Honda's high-performance engines.

After more internet research on required parts, costs, and the swap procedure I took the first step by purchasing a K20A2 engine from eBay.

During the next months, I encountered many obstacles while I tried to install this beast into my EM2 and get it running. If I look back to this project today, there are five things that I definitely would do differently to avoid a lot of hassle. It seems common sense to attach the K20 engine to a hoist, lift it, and lower it into the Civic's engine bay.

But there's one detail which I didn't think of - the K-Series motor is slightly bigger than the D17 - enough to cause a lot of frustration while trying to get it in place and attach the mounts. Instead, the smarter approach is to raise the front of the car, place the K20 under the engine bay, and lower the car. There's much more space available and it's way easier to attach the upper mounts this way. Speaking of engine mounts, this is the next point on my list which I would do differently.

For my first K-Series build, I chose aftermarket K-Swap conversion mounts with polyurethane bushings. They were the only conversion mounts available back then. Although I selected the 'softest' setting, the vibrations inside the car while the engine was running were enormous. What I didn't know was that the lower mounts don't necessarily have to get replaced with the conversion mounts.

Doing that, you would lower the vibrations which get transferred to the chassis because the stock mounts rubber bushings absorb more vibrations.

On the other side, you would sacrifice some of the stiff and direct driving response. If you don't mind a built-in massage seat or prioritize performance over comfort, you'll be definitely fine with the stiffer conversion mounts.

For a daily driver, however, I would recommend falling back on rubber bushings. I knew that the wiring topic wouldn't be an easy one - but it turned out to be the one that caused me the most trouble. Since the oxygen sensor wires in the Civic EM2 are not part of the engine harness, you need to wire them in separately. Fortunately, I found a brief write-up of the wiring process of an EM2 K-Swap on the internet and followed through the instructions. Doubts had already come up when I looked at the wiring mess, and my intuition was right - the oxygen sensor wasn't delivering any measurements, but only throwing a malfunction code.

k swap ecu options

After weeks of troubleshooting, we discovered that there are differences in the sensor wiring between different manufacturing years and countries where the EM2 was sold.

With this fact in mind, more research and trial-and-error was done and the wiring topic finally brought to an end.

If you look for the required parts for a Civic EM2 K-Swap project, the throttle cable is oftentimes mentioned as a component that needs to get replaced since it's too long to get properly mounted to the K20 throttle body. But why not save a few bucks we could spend on a more or less fancy shift knob?

We found that you can easily modify the stock throttle cable by cutting it at the right length and mount a new cable nipple.